We asked the curator about Captain Donato. She had never heard
of him.
As we left the museum a kid on a bicycle called, "Good
afternoon sir." I waved back. Then it sank in - "Good afternoon
sir"? What a change from "Hi Joe," that GI legacy so common in
the south.
We walked back along Burgos Street to the Cathedral of Vigan,
one of the largest and oldest churches in the Philippines.
Built in 1641, it replaced a wood and thatch chapel erected by
Juan de Salcedo in 1574. The church was packed for the 3:30
mass, so we stood outside by the massive double wooden doors. A
plaque set into the wall described Father Burgos's baptism here
in 1837. On the same wall a poster advertised the opening of
the Vera Cruz Skin Clinic on September 8, 1993. It looked
strangely out of place.
At the south end of Quezon Avenue we found the cemetery chapel.
It was closed, but the gate to the cemetery was open. We walked
among the marble tombstones and wondered at the strange mix of
religious symbols and graffiti.
A block away we came across another old house, also needing
repair. A sign above the door said National Museum. The
shutters were up and the wooden doors were bolted. No sign
indicated when it would open - or, if it ever would. We asked a
passer-by when the museum would open. She said, "Perhaps
tomorrow." Our guide book said the Museum was mainly a tribute
to "the good ole Marcos era."
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